Chanel suit of yellow wool, 1960s

This wool suit showcases many of the hallmarks of Chanel’s design. The lining is sewn to the jacket and the skirt in parallel vertical lines. These stitches go all the way through to the outside of the garment but they line up so perfectly with the loose weave of the fabric that they are barely detectable. Another distinctive element of a Chanel jacket is the chain used as a weight along the hem. The weighted bottom ensures that the jacket will lay flat.

The suit is carefully finished in order to reduce bulkiness that is a natural result of working with such a heavy and loosely woven fabric. The edges of the jacket along the collar, the front opening and the bottom hem are finished with whipstitches that are decorative and functional. The buttonholes are finished with stitches on the outside but bound on the inside lining.

13. Suit of yellow wool
    Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel
    French, 1960s
    Wool, silk lining, chain, metal buttons
    Gift of Marti Stevens, KSUM 1986.46.2 ab

Chanel suit of yellow wool, 1960s

The suit lining is quilted with parallel vertical lines.

The lining is sewn to the jacket and the skirt in parallel vertical lines.

Another distinctive element of a Chanel jacket is the chain used as a weight along the hem. The weighted bottom ensures that the jacket will lay flat.

The edges of the jacket along the collar, the front opening and the bottom hem are finished with whipstitches that are decorative and functional.

The suit is carefully finished in order to reduce bulkiness that is a natural result of working with such a heavy and loosely woven fabric. The buttonholes are finished with stitches on the outside but bound on the inside lining.

The suit is carefully finished in order to reduce bulkiness that is a natural result of working with such a heavy and loosely woven fabric. The edges of the jacket along the collar, the front opening and the bottom hem are finished with whipstitches that are decorative and functional.

The hem of the skirt is finished with a lightweight facing which is less bulky than turning under the heavy wool.

The waistband of the skirt is a crisp silk that is laid on the bias to ensure it remains neat and flat.

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