Ivory silk and lace wedding dress, 1898

This dress was worn by Mary Bishop Whisler of Hancock County, Ohio for her wedding on September 25, 1898. The blousing at front of the bodice was typical of the turn-of-the-century. A look at the interior structure reaveals that the underbodice is heavily boned down the front, with the loose appearance being created with a space between the two layers of the bodice. The loose front of the bodice also conceals a secret pocket in the underbodice. This pocket is not visible when the dress is worn. Most likely the bride tucked a personal keepsake next to her heart.

The waist of the bodice has two hooks at the center back, which align with corresponding eyes on the skirt’s waistband. These points of attachment ensured that the dress remained straight and in place. The lace flounce on the skirt is not simply stitched onto the surface of the skirt; it actually conceals the seam between the pieces of the skirt. The flared trumpet shape is created with a semi-circular piece wrapped around the back and bottom of the skirt. This ruffle is then stiffened with a form of interfacing. The bottom hem is finished inside with an inch deep facing of matching velvet.

Ivory silk and lace wedding dress
American, 1898
Silk broadcloth, machine lace, cotton lining, baleen, velvet hem facing
Gift of Dr. Roland Mitchell, KSUM 1993.18.1 ab

Ivory silk and lace wedding dress, 1898, KSUM 1993.18.1 ab

The blousing at front of the bodice was typical of the turn-of-the-century. A look at the interior structure reaveals that the underbodice is heavily boned down the front, with the loose appearance being created with a space between the two layers of the bodice.

The herringbone stitches attaching the boning to the seam allowances provide a beautiful finish to the interior. The pinked edges of the casing and seam allowances have a function – to prevent frayed edges – but also add to the aesthetic appeal.

The loose front of the bodice also conceals a secret pocket in the underbodice. The pocket is not visible when the dress is worn, but its outline can be seen in this backlit photo. Most likely the bride tucked a personal keepsake next to her heart.

The dress includes shields in the armpits to protect the silk from staining and discoloration.

The waist of the bodice has two hooks at the center back, which align with corresponding eyes on the skirt’s waistband. These points of attachment ensured that the dress remained straight and in place.

The waist of the skirt has two eyes at the center back, which align with corresponding hooks on the inside of the bodice. These points of attachment ensured that the dress remained straight and in place.

The lace flounce on the skirt is not simply stitched onto the surface of the skirt; it actually conceals the seam between the pieces of the skirt. The flared trumpet shape is created with a semi-circular piece wrapped around the back and bottom of the skirt.